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Step 1 - Custom Pattern Drafting
The CPM (Chief Pattern Maker) will adjust the pattern, if needed, to reflect new measurements. Traditional pattern drafting is a technical skill that Oxxford Clothes is committed and dedicated to perpetuate by investing in training our people in the “Oxxford Methods of Design”.
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Step 2 - Cutter Making Marker
The patterns are laid out over the cloth to create a schematic for cutting the suit from the cloth. At Oxxford we cut every order observing a “one way” marker so that all of the pattern pieces are laid out in the same direction. This method greatly reduces the likelihood of shading when the pieces are sewn together. One of the most critical steps when making the marker is to position the pieces to ensure that the “stripe line” or “grain line” on the pattern is perfectly straight. This is achieved by measuring from two points on the pattern from the stripe line to the selvedge to ensure the pattern is being placed straight to avoid any bias in the cut.
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Step 3 - Master Cutter Marking the Patterns
After the Master Cutter makes the marker it is time to “mark in” or “chalk” the pieces onto the cloth. Cutters weights are positioned over the pieces so that the patterns will not shift. The cutter then sharpens his chalk and begins to trace the patterns onto the cloth.
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Step 4 - Master Cutter Preparing Plaid Matching
When cutting stripes and plaids the Master Cutter blocks out the pieces first. This simply means that they cut the piece outside of the chalk lines, this is called “blocking out the piece”. This “blocked out piece” is now rolled vertically and horizontally (in the case of a plaid) to ensure that the top layer and bottom layer are symmetrical (keep in mind that the bottom layer and top layer represent the right and left of your suit). Once the “blocked out pieces” are symmetrical they are then ready to be “net cut”. “Net cut” refers to cutting on the chalk line.
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Step 5 - Master Cutter Cutting Cloth
The Master Cutter then cuts the pieces out. When observing the most highly skilled cutters you can actually see a small burst of chalk dust after each snip as they guide their shears right through the center of the chalk line.
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